Can wrinkles really disappear?

No. Fine lines can become softer and your skin can look smoother, firmer and more even. Deep wrinkles do not disappear from a cream. Skin ageing is ultimately just part of life.

At what age can I start?

Good sun protection is sensible at any age. There is no fixed starting age for a retinoid. It is mainly about your skin, your wishes and whether a treatment really adds something.

How long does it take before I see something?

That varies per retinoid and per skin. With the newest generation, the first changes can be visible after four to six weeks. Clearer results usually require twelve to sixteen weeks and consistent use.

Can my skin become irritated by a retinoid?

Yes. Especially at the start you can experience redness, dryness, flakes or a burning sensation. Building up calmly and using a simple moisturiser often helps. If the irritation becomes severe, contact your doctor.

When is a dermatologist sensible?

If you are considering a prescription-only retinoid, have sensitive skin or do not know which treatment suits you. A dermatologist looks not only at what is possible, but also tells you honestly what is unlikely to add much.

SKIN AGEING

What really happens when your skin ages

Skin ageing is part of life. But that does not mean there is nothing you can do about fine lines, pigment spots or skin that feels less firm.

Here you can read what changes in your skin, which treatments actually do something and which mostly just sound good. Explained soberly by BIG-registered dermatologists.

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Reply from a dermatologist within 12 to 48 hours

Two women with healthy, well cared for skin, illustrating skin ageing and anti-ageing

What is skin ageing?

Your skin does not suddenly become older on your twenty-fifth birthday. It is a gradual process. How quickly your skin changes depends mainly on what happens inside your skin, your disposition and how much sun you have had over the course of your life.

Your skin gradually produces less collagen

From around your mid-twenties, collagen production slowly decreases. This happens to everyone and does not mean anything is wrong with your skin.

Your skin becomes thinner and less elastic

The skin renews itself more slowly and holds moisture less well. Lines that used to fade on their own therefore stay visible a little longer.

Sunlight largely sets the pace

UV radiation accelerates visible skin ageing. A large part of the fine lines and pigment spots on the face comes from sunlight that builds up year after year.

What really works against wrinkles?

The shelf of anti-ageing products is long. The list of ingredients whose effect has actually been well researched is a good deal shorter.

1
Retinoids as the cornerstone
Retinoids stimulate cell renewal and collagen production. Of all substances against visible skin ageing, they are the longest and best researched.
2
SPF 30 or higher every day
Sun protection may sound less exciting than a new serum, but it is the best way to prevent extra skin ageing. Also on cloudy days and when you sit near a window a lot.
3
Sober about the rest
Vitamin C, niacinamide and a good moisturiser can support the skin and make it look smoother. But no cream turns back the clock. A jar can promise a great deal. Fortunately your skin stays a lot more honest.

Retinol from the chemist, or a prescription-only retinoid?

Retinoids are derived from vitamin A. They belong to the same family, but differ considerably in strength, effect and tolerability. What works well on one skin can be too strong or too mild for another.

Retinol

The mildest form and freely available in cosmetics. A logical first step if you want to start cautiously. The effect is usually also more modest.

The mildest form, freely available in cosmetics. A logical first step if you want to start cautiously.

Adapalene

Best known from acne treatment. It works more selectively and is generally better tolerated than the classic retinoids.

Known from acne treatment. More selective and generally better tolerated.

Tretinoin

The most researched substance against fine lines and visible skin ageing. Used for decades and still the gold standard.

The most researched substance against fine lines. Still the gold standard.

Trifarotene

The first fourth-generation retinoid: the same proven effectiveness, with considerably less irritation.

Fourth generation: the same proven effectiveness with considerably less irritation.

The strongest forms that demonstrably reduce fine lines and wrinkles are only available on prescription. A dermatologist looks at which retinoid suits your skin and writes a prescription if appropriate.

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From tretinoin to trifarotene

Retinoids exist in several generations. Each new generation works more precisely, with the same goal: visible results with as little irritation as possible.

FIRST GENERATION
tretinoin
In use since 1971 and extensively researched. Tretinoin acts on multiple receptors, which is why the skin can react quite strongly in the first weeks.
SECOND GENERATION
more stable
These molecules were made chemically more stable, so they break down less quickly under the influence of light and air. They were mainly used for other skin conditions, such as psoriasis.
THIRD GENERATION
more targeted
Works more selectively on receptors in the skin and is therefore better tolerated by many people.
FOURTH GENERATION
trifarotene
The newest generation of retinoid. Selectively active and often less irritating in practice. The first visible results are usually seen after four to six weeks.

When do you see a difference?

A retinoid is not a quick trick. Your skin needs time to adjust and change. This is roughly what you can expect.

Week 4 to 6

With the newest generation, the first improvements can become visible. At the same time your skin may still be dry, red or sensitive in this phase.

Week 12 to 16

The skin can become smoother and more even. Fine lines, skin texture and pigment can visibly improve.

After that

Perseverance largely determines the result. If you stop or use the product irregularly, the effect decreases again over time.

Realistic expectations are part of a good treatment. A dermatologist tells you in advance what is achievable for your skin.

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Safe use

Apply it in the evening

Use a thin layer on clean, dry skin. More product does not give a faster result, but often does give more irritation.

Build up calmly

Start with, for example, two evenings a week and expand slowly. This gives your skin time to get used to it.

SPF is part of it

Use broad-spectrum sun protection with SPF 30 or higher every day.

Not during pregnancy

Do not use retinoids during pregnancy or when you want to become pregnant. Breastfeeding? Discuss use with your doctor first.

Frequently asked questions

No. Fine lines can become softer and your skin can look smoother, firmer and more even. Deep wrinkles do not disappear from a cream. Skin ageing is ultimately just part of life.